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Terry-Pile
Fabrics
TARA loom to have
terry motion option
The term
"terry-pile" refers to a variety of woven fabrics, characterised by
the formation of a series of loops projecting from the body of the fabric. The
loops are formed by an extra series of comparatively slack warp threads. They
may be distributed uniformly either on face side only, or on both the face and
back of the fabric, to form a perfectly even surface. Or the loops of the pile
may be developed in such a manner so as to create a figured design upon a
plain or simple ground. Alternatively, a figured terry fabric may contain an
all-over pile structure on both the face and back with the figure and ground
portion developed in contrasting colour of pile warp threads.
This type of looped structure is particularly suitable for towelling purposes
since long, free floating yarns, if made from absorbent materials, are capable
of wicking-up large amount of moisture. Terry-pile is also used for bathmats,
carpets, furnishing cloth, counterpanes etc. The quality of terry fabric
largely depends on the type of raw material used in its production.
The best material for towelling purposes is cotton. It not only absorbs
moisture easily but also stands up well to frequent and harsh launderings.
Linen is used for articles which must stand up to hard wear, such as carpets
and furnishing cloth. Viscose rayons are not used for terry-pile due to their
low abrasion resistance and insufficient strength when wet.
Terry-pile fabric is reduced in two ways:
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by means of
wires which are inserted in war sheds at intervals and are subsequently
withdrawn, thereby causing all war threads to pass over them to form a
corresponding number of loops. As this is done, a sharp knife, attached to
the end of the wire, cuts the piled warp loops. This method is very
laborious and consequently productivity is low. This type of fabric is
quite popular in the northern India and is commonly known as "Neelam"
fabric.
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by means of
terry-pile motion, whereby several piles of weft are inserted a short
distance from the "fell" of the cloth (or the last pick
inserted) to produce a short gap or "fret after which they are all
pushed forward together to take their final place in the fabric. As each
group of picks (horizontal threads) is pushed forward by the reed, pile
warp threads buckle or loop either on one side only or on both sides of
the cloth.
A loom needs
two extra attachments to execute terry-motion:
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one extra
beam under less tension containing pile warp threads is positioned above
the ground warp beam (under normal tension).
-
a device
for executing variable beat up motion. The motion of the sley is designed
so that the two succeeding picks are beaten up short of the true cloth
fell and produce a temporary false fell; on the third pick of the group
full beat up takes place, the three picks being pushed forward together to
the true fell position.
Most handloom
terry fabrics are produced either on dobby or jacquard machines. But mounting
of a dobby or a jacquard on a loom may pose several problems, including: (i)
lower productivity; (ii) the height of loom shed must be increased to
accommodate jacquard; and (iii) extra cost for harness and jacquard and
pattern card.
Attempts have been made to weave terry pile fabric on the TARA loom with out
the aid of a jacquard. In the TARA loom, the variable motion of the reed is
achieved by a simple reed stopper mounted on the front rest of the loom and is
operated by means of healed reversing motion.
Attempt emery roller with pinned surface is attached to provide proper grip on
the cloth. Also the take-up system is modified to match with the variable
motion of the sky (reed assembly). The extra attachment to the loom will cost
approximately Rs. 1,000/-. The TARA loom with terry motion is still under
trial for further improvement of its quality and productivity.
by Suman Bhattacharya and Manas
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