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            Chasing the Monsoon : an odyssey 
            
            
            Aparajita Gogoi  
            
            The 
            seed to makeafilm on the vagaries of the Monsoon  
            germinated in the communication unit. Butalongwith came the 
            realization of the enormity of the project.  It is not easy to 
            chase  a phenomenon like the monsoon, known for its unpredictability 
            and its wild run through the country. In his book, Chasing the 
            Monsoon, Alexander Frater details the hardship he was subjected 
            to during the chase. And here we were, dreaming to do the same with 
            camera and crew!   
            
            The 
            proposal posted in late May 1996 came through in early July.  Well, 
            there were people who would help us to carry forth our 
            dream.  We got some funds from TVE, London, and NOVIB, and with 
            inputs from our organisation, we embarked on our chase. 
            
            The 
            day the green signal was received, the crew, already assembled and 
            kept on hold, swung into action and we clambered on to the first 
            available flight to Assam, a state  already reeling under the havoc 
            created by flood waters-courtesy the  'generous' monsoon. 
            
            On 
            landing in Guwahati, we were greeted by a gloomy and cloudy sky. 
            "Bad light", murmured the cameraman. I nodded in the affirmative but 
            it did not worry me.  Being from the region, I knew that the 
            clouds could dissipate in seconds and give way to bright sunlight.   
            
            The 
            first day was hectic. We set forth gathering information. "Where are 
            the floods?"  "Everywhere" we were told. But most of the flood 
            affected areas were not accessible. The rivers were in spate and, in 
            the path of destruction, had swept away many roads and portions of 
            railway tracks. 
            
            On the 
            second day, we set forth to capture the floods on film. When we 
            reached the boundaries of an officially declared flood ravaged 
            district, we stopped at a crossroads and asked the people where 
            the floods were. They told us that if we drive down any of these 
            roads, we would reach a point where the road had been torn apart by 
            the angry torrents of water.  
            
            At the 
            end of the 'PWD' road, we were confronted by a vast expanse of 
            roaring water and massive devastation.  The surging waters were 
            flowing unceasingly.  We could see doors of houses, roofs, parts of 
            furniture and other belongings being swept away.  We switched on the 
            camera, the crew now sad and morose at the sight of such 
            destruction.  
            
            The 
            villagers told us that what we were shooting was not a river.  
            Underneath the waters lay their precious fields with crops. This 
            year, the floods decided to breach the embankment and turn the 
            village of Dhantola into a river bed.  
            
            The 
            rest of the villagers were staying at a school improvised as a 
            relief camp. We waded in waist deep water with the equipment firmly 
            lodged on our shoulders for several kilometres.  Finally we arrived 
            at the relief camp, wet and hungry.  But our discomfort vanished 
            when we met the people rendered homeless by the flood.  Bereft of 
            their homes and hearth, these people were still optimistic, waiting 
            for the flood waters to recede so that they could go back to their 
            land and rebuild their life.  
            
            We 
            spoke to them and interviewed them on camera about whether this 
            particular disaster could have been averted.  Most of them were of 
            the opinion that it was the weakness of the embankments which caused 
            the disaster. It set us thinking about how an embankment, said to be 
            a flood management mechanism, was actually responsible for a flash 
            flood.  Despite their heart-rending, miserable state, the villagers 
            had not forsaken their traditional Assamese hospitality.  They 
            insisted on cooking part of their relief rations and feeding us. We 
            left the camp, awed by the stoicism of the people and their 
            tremendous will to survive, and also a little guilty at 
            devouring part of their meagre rations.  
            
            Back 
            in Guwahati, the family grapevine informed me of something amazing.  
            Wonder of wonders!  While' floods devastated a major part of Assam, 
            there were other areas which had not received any rain at all!  The 
            farming community of one particularly dry area, terrified at the 
            prospect of no rains, were organising a unique function. A chosen 
            frog couple was being joined in holy mauimony! All this to seek the 
            blessing of the rain-god Indra!  
            
            We 
            picked up our equipment and went to record this unique ceremony, 
            complete with a baraat and wedding songs. We also captured on 
            camera the attempt by the bridegroom to run away but caught and 
            brought back'.  The final of the ceremony was of course the feastof 
            which we partook generous portions.  
            
            
            Unfortunately, we could not find out whether the rain-god showered 
            his blessings or not, because we had to leave for Cherrapunjee the 
            next day. Cherrapunjee, which till a few years back received the 
            world's highest rainfall is today called a wet desert. We 
            wanted to find out what had gone wrong with Cherra.    
            
            On 
            reaching Cherrapunjee, the crew went into a trance, marvelling at 
            the scenic beauty, the greenery, the people and the slow and happy 
            pace of life. And, of course, the much talked about low lying 
            clouds. Keeping in mind that sunset hits Cherra-pretty early, we 
            then rushed around shooting. We interviewed local people, asked them 
            their views about what caused the monsoon td shift favours and why 
            Cherra is now famous as a 'wet desert'.  During the dry winter 
            months, Cherra is water starved,  despite  the generous bestowal of 
            rains during the monsoon.  
            
            We 
            witnessed the widespread felling of trees, the open-cast coal mining 
            and other industrial operations which could cause environmental 
            degradation.   
            
            Our 
            research into the importance of monsoon rains for agriculture 
            revealed to us the vitality of water harvesting.  Therefore our next 
            schedule took us to Central India. We visited Datia in Madhya 
            Pradesh where people are reviving traditional practices of water 
            harvesting.  In and around Jhansi we spoke to farmers who have 
            benefited from the adoption of water harvesting structures like 
            checkdams. We learnt from them how vital the timeliness and quantity 
            of monsoon rains are to our food growers.  
            
            Back 
            in Delhi, with our treasured horde of tapes, we started hammering 
            out a film. We wanted to establish the importance of the monsoon 
            rains and how the storing of this rain could be beneficial for our 
            farmers. We put forth case studies of places which had failed to 
            benefit from the bounty of the monsoon and of other places which 
            bloom due to water harvesting.   
            
            The 
            film is our homage to the monsoon rains, till date the main stay of 
            our rain fed agriculture; our empathy  for the flood affected people 
            and our appreciation for those who have successfully harvested the 
            monsoon rain.  
            
            Now 
            its winter time and the harvesting has started. One cannot help but 
            wonder what those people in Dhantola are harvesting. We only hope 
            that their will to survive has helped them start life anew. 
            
             q 
            
            
            
            
            
            
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